The Georgian Period extends roughly from 1714-1830, which includes the reigns of four English Kings named George. Jewelry during this time was all handmade by skilled artisans and pieces from this era are very rare today. It was a time of upheaval, with the French Revolution, American Revolution and Napoleonic Wars taking place. Gold and diamonds were scarce during this time period, so alternatives like glass “paste” copies of diamonds were created as well as other white colored stones. Garnets, pearls, and coral were used very often, while carving gemstones was very popular. Women often worn bracelets in pairs and earrings were worn long with hair kept upswept. Jeweled arm bands worn high on the arm were popular near the beginning of the time period, with a change to more delicate jewelry happening towards the end.
Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period:
- Navette style rings
- Memento Mori jewelry–made from locks of hair of loved ones
- Ribbons/Bows–often having a pear-shaped gemstones
- Starburst and Flower brooches
- Cameos–carving shell, onyx, carnelian was very popular; Napoleon founded a carving school because he was so fond.
- Roman mosaics “Mille-Fiore” taking semi-preicous stones and inlaying them in black onyx
- Ferronieres–were head ornaments worn with a jewel that sat on the forehead. It was a fad of short duration during the Georgian and Victorian eras. Once the style was over many pieces were remade into necklaces or bracelets.
- Crowned Heart design–symbolized the importance of love’s rule over one’s life.
- flowers, greek key, laurel leaves, scroll work, eagles, Egyptian symbols, urns and acorns
Important People of the Time:
- Benedetto Pistrucci–talented carver of gemstones and cameos
- Robert Adam–his architecture work and designs influenced neo-classicism in jewelry arts
Life during this time period was often short, due to poor sanitation, poor medicines with diseases spread easily/quickly. The contrast of the small number of people who were rich and the many poor was very distinct–most people were never able to afford jewelry, but those few who did were extravagant and lived a life of luxury. So, if you are lucky enough to own or purchase a piece of jewelry from the Georgian Era, it probably once belonged to someone very privileged.
The Victorian Era of jewelry, a time of romanticism, begins around 1835 and ends around 1890. Queen Victoria was of whom this entire era was named after–she was not only the ruler of all England at the time, but a highly looked upon trendsetter, admired by everyone. Her marriage and wedding to Albert portrays many attributes of the time–Victoria was presented with an engagement ring that featured a snake with an emerald-set head (birthstones rather than diamonds were used in engagment rings, and snakes were a symbol of eternal love). Her wedding dress featured a large sapphire and diamond brooch, which was given to her from Albert the day before their wedding. With the death of Albert some 20 years later, this tragic event influenced the world of jewelry. Having Queen Victoria constantly wearing black, black enameling became very popular as well as jet beads.
Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period:
- Hearts–jewelry was very sentimental
- anchors, snakes, crosses, birds, clasping hands, flowers
- Greek, Etruscan, Egyptian revival
- filigree work of gold–since gold was still limited
- lockets–which held photos or hair
- jet, black enameling–after Albert’s death
- dragons, crescent moons, stars, butterflies, salamanders–late Victorian Era
Important People of the Time:
- Carlo Giuliano
- Castellani
The Art Nouveau Period (1895-1915) was an uncontrived time, as it came about as an artistic revolt against all that was popular and commonplace of the 19th Century. This time period did not last too long, but created many sought after collectibles, art, architecture and jewelry. Focus was given to craftsmanship and creativity, since people felt things were becoming too industrial and imitative. Ironically, the reason for its coming to be, became the time period’s demise, after it became commercialized and cheaply copied.
Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period:
- natural subjects: flowers, insects, birds
- curving, asymmetrical lines and designs
- female visage or silhouette with long, flowing hair
- enameling & plique à jour (stained glass effect)
- butterflies, dragonflies, swans, reptiles, snakes/serpents, orchids, irises, creepy/nightmarish things- bats, owls, vultures
- opals, amber, horn, ivory were often used; even glass…diamonds were used sparingly
Important People of the Time:
- René Lalique- French designer, worked for Cartier, Boucheron, created pieces for Samuel Bing’s Paris shop Maison de I’Art Nouveau
- Georges Fouquet
King Edward VII took the throne, which began the Edwardian Period in 1901 and lasted until around 1915, around the start of the first World War. During this time, fashion and opulence were the forefront of society. Women were as feminine as possible, outfitted with delicate layers of feathers, bows, lace and silk. Queen Alexandra was iconic. She often wore many strands of pearls and other necklaces all layered together, as illustrated in the picture below. Progress made in gem cutting made triangles, baguettes and trapeze shapes new and interesting. This time in history marked England as a global, dominant force, with the rich living in extravagance.
The start of World War I made for a quick end to this lavish era of a carefree spirit. Precious metals became scarce, while many people hid away their jewels in vaults or had to sell them.
Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period:
- overuse of platinum; platinum and diamonds
- jewelry imitated lace; “lace translated into platinum and diamonds”
- milgraining
- négligée pendants- two drops of unequal length
- sautoir necklaces- long necklaces usually composed of pearls, with tassels on ends
- stars, ribbons, bows, garlands
- dog collar style choker necklaces
- jewels for hair
- Peridot was considered the “good luck stone” as popularized by King Edward
- bar pins
Important People of the Time:
- Queen Alexandra
Photo courtesy of Lang Antiques
A favorite decorative period of mine is the Art Deco Era, which sprang from the end of WWI. Bouncing back from war efforts, where women desperately had to take over men’s jobs and jewelry production was put on hold, the Art Deco period is characterized by decadence. This period encompasses the 1920s-1930s, during which women gained the right to vote, 15 million new cars were registered and hit the roads (1920-1929), many stock market fortunes were made, all while people danced the Charleston. As you can tell, the jewelry reflected what was happening–especially fashion. The “flapper” style was all the rage. Women rebelled by wearing short dresses, red lipstick, and bobbed hair. Bracelets were piled on, both on the upper and lower arms. Earrings, particularly a dangle style, were popular because of the shorter hairstyles.
As the economy and stock market fourished, Americans continued to spend frivolously, while borrowing heavily. As a result, the stock market crashed. The Great Depression loomed, and the lavish living of the roaring twenties had come to a dramatic halt.
Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period:
- geometric shapes- as influenced by Cubism
- white-on-white: platinum with diamonds, this time adding emeralds, sapphires or rubies as well
- coral + diamonds, turquoise + sapphires
- black enamel to contrast bright gemstone colors
- Egyptian motifs, scarab, sphinx & falcon, as influenced by King Tut’s tomb discovery in 1923
- Eastern influences- carved gemstones and jade
- automotive motifs- autos, planes, gazelles, arrows & panthers
- dress clips
- convertible sautoirs- long necklaces that could be taken apart forming a bracelet, choker & pendant
- cocktail watches- diamond encrusted watches
Important People of the Time:
- Raymond Templier
- Frederic Desprès
- Jean Dunand
- Paul Brandt
- Gerald Sandoz
Important Jewelry Houses of the Time:
Bold gold, Hollywood starlets, huge gemstones and cocktail rings, all characterize the Retro time period of jewelry. Spanning from 1940-1945, this coincides almost exactly with World War II. With that said, platinum use in jewelry was no longer available. Gold made a comeback, this time in rose and even green gold. Everything in regards to retro jewelry was oversized. Rubies were the most prominent gemstone, followed by large, rectangular cut citrines, aquamarines and amethysts.
Hollywood glamour, as depicted in movies, was popular and let Americans escape from their thoughts about the war. As a result, people tried to mimic the bold jewelry seen in Hollywood spotlights. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor were looked upon for their large collection of bold retro jewels, often decked out in Van Cleef & Arpels or Cartier.
After this period ended, jewelry during this time period was often used as scrap gold, being melted down, while destroying its rich history. As a result, Retro jewelry is highly collectible and will continue to be sought.
Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period:
- bows, florals, scrolls, fans, ribbons, ruffles
- Hollywood glamour; oversized jewels, cocktail rings
- huge, rectangular cuts of aquamarines, citrines, amethysts, with ruby or sapphire or diamond accents
- Patriotic themes; flags, eagles, military
- post earrings, no dangle; flower earrings
- birds, baskets, sprays of diamonds, shells, hearts
- Retro mesh buckle bracelets
- Cartier’s animal jewelry
- Yellow, rose and green gold
Important People of the Time:
- The Duke & Duchess of Windsor
- French jeweler, Mauboussin
Jewelry of the 1950s has recently been acknowledged in a historical perspective. Modern day jewelry is everchanging and is not yet considered “historical.”
After WWII, the jewelry industry began to flourish once again. Television and rock & roll were new influences. Several large jewelry houses produced both high-end, luxurious jewelry, as well as smaller classic pieces for your average, middle class consumer. During this time, artisan jewelry emerged, inspiring “Jewelry as Art” or “Wearable Art.” Often this type of jewelry was hand-made and only included one-of-a-kind pieces. There are many collectors of Mid-Century American Studio Jewelry today.
Present-day jewelry is happening now, with trends and motifs all around us. It is only a matter of time until it makes its way into history!
Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period:
- pavé diamonds!
- open, textural designs
- braided & twisted goldwork
- yellow gold paired with gemstones; white gold/platinum paired with diamonds
- matching sets called “suites”
- animals, bumble bees, snowflakes, flowers, leaves, stars
- short necklaces, choker style; “Riviera” necklace- graduated diamond choker
Important People of the Time:
I love this! Great info:)